Ramen for Breakfast

2009-06-05T04:46:00.001+09:00

Regretably, I was asked to leave the country and now reside in America. If you care to join me, I'm at www.japaneseontheinside.blogspot.com

Ja Ne!

Jessica

2009-02-11T18:29:00.002+09:00

Something Funny Happened at Work Today...

One of the cooks walked in to collect his pay and was sporting a shirt that was reminiscent of a certain pop culture work of art--the Velvet Underground album cover by Andy Warhol. Being a fan of the VU but an even bigger Warhol fanatic, I started laughing like crazy and that of course led to a ten minute explanation as to why I was so tickled by his shirt. Thanks to Google imaging and my toddler-level Japanese, I was able to explain to him that he was sporting a spoof. To the best of my knowledge, this is a tourist shirt from Okinawa of maybe a bar, restaurant or even type of Goya (a bitter melon from Okinawa.)

In any case, it's the first time I've posted anything from my workplace although given the fact that I work with like, forty Japanese--I learn a lot about Japanese culture while on the job.

For those who are totally clueless out there, here's the album: (and jeez, get out once in awhile...)

Get it?

2009-02-03T18:02:00.004+09:00

Setsubun-Hello Spring, Devils and Crunchy Soy Beans!

Asashoryu's Coach is one of the Famous Bean-Tossers!

The Crowd at the Bean Throwing Day at Hasedera Temple, Kamakura

Traditional Japanese Dessert of Peas, Mochi (Pounded Rice) with Vanilla Ice Cream

We stopped at an old Japanese house-turned-tea and dessert restaurant. These peas are dried to store and before being served are soaked to revive them. Before eating, we used a tea kettle to pour brown sugar syrup over our sweets.

Pork Rules!!!

If you're ever on your way to or fro the big Buddha, stop at the Katsudon place next to the tracks by Hase station (Enoden Line.) It's the best katsudon I've had! This is Yumi's first time there and Kristy's first time having Katsudon ever!
Ramen-In-A-Can

It's been awhile since I found anything cool in a vending machine. This one had curry, oden and a slew of various noodle-based eats including the classic Ramen!

2009-01-28T22:47:00.008+09:00

Our New Year Started Like This...

Toasting cans of Yebisu Beer purchased at a convenience store, perched on a cliff overlooking Sagami Bay with a crystal clear Mt Fuji view--spectacular! This is Inamuragasaki Point in Kamakura. There is a little park with some statues and great views where we chilled for a bit before heading to Kita Kamakura.

Meigetsuin-Near Engakuji and the Kita Kamakura Stop
The coolest thing about this place is this:
But they've got a few old Bamboo thickets too:

Finally, we arrived to Engakuji for...how we Celebrate the New Year: Unfiltered Sake to Wake our Spirit!

The first Blossoms of the Year...Apricot?

2008-12-31T07:43:00.003+09:00

Make Your Money Double at Zeniarai Benzaiten Shrine!!!

Look Ma! No Hands!
This out-of-the-way shrine is well worth the short walk from Kamakura station! It's very picturesque with the main area being carved into a large rock/mountain/whatever with many colorful tori gates and carvings near a pond full of colorful carp. My camera crapped out after the first power up, so all I have is the first part of our visit:(

I put all of my yen and dollars into my basket including the coins I had on me. Silly? Maybe. But I fancy myself good with money and what do you want to know--I did come into extra, unexpected money in December and a bit more than "double" what I washed!!!
These eggs and jar of sake were sitting outside the main shrine in the area. We asked a monk who explained that the godess was a snake form and she ate eggs. (Did I get that right Yumi?)
After we prayed, we headed over to a really cool little snack shack that sold sake, beer, soft drinks and small munchies. We enjoyed tea and a few boiled eggs before hiking up to see an old house and garden.
Yumi might kill me for posting these. You can see how tired she is after working late the night before. But what a pal--she got her rear out of bed early (for a change) to take me on a hike through the Kamakura hills including a stop at Zeniarai Benten Shrine. Here's a map of Kamakura if you want to find your own temple adventure and here's more info on this shrine.

Kamakura, Japan

2008-12-29T06:11:00.005+09:00

Grillin & Chillin

This weekend was gorgeous! Saturday and Sunday were sunny, clear and warm, so naturally we were at the beach both days--Saturday, to hike to a great Fuji viewing spot that we know of and Sunday to meet up with Enamoto San's family. They picked up local seafood and we brought plenty of microbrewed beer, veggies and chili. The highlights were definitely the Red Hook Beer (his wife couldn't get enough of it,) and the giant scallops and clams. All of the seafood was cooked right over coals on the beach with Fuji in the background. Everything was cooked as-is or with one simple seasoning; the clams were given a gentle dose of beer to "get them drunk" and the scallops a little pat of butter to simmer in.
After a pickup game of baseball and a few strolls, we nibbled on dried stingray fins and tuna steaks. Who knew dried stingray with a little Kewpie mayo and Shichimi (spicy seasoning) was so killer?! I could liver here half my life, (and I literally almost have,) and still learn something new every time we get together with our Japanese friends.

Secret Spot, Secret City, Japan

2008-12-18T07:21:00.003+09:00

The Gal Who Mistreated Her Camera

It should be a fairy tale for children with expensive toys...I'm on hiatus because I've abused my best friend of three years, my digital camera. It's been dropped on cement floors at concerts, knocked around a backpack on hikes and absorbed countless splashes of liquid at restaurants but it was a slippery rock, a very ungraceful photographer and a tiny tide pool that finally did her in. Until I get it fixed/replaced, I'll be relying on Yumi's generous lending of her camera during our outings and the occasional crapp- quality mobile phone photo. Speaking of which, here's Santa Lucifer wishing all of you a very Happy Holidays!

2008-10-31T09:45:00.008+09:00

Let's Come Together to Celebrate...Tuna!!!

I spent Sunday, October 26 at Misaki Port--a few kilometers from my childhood stomping grounds--in a fish market turned festival. From what I understand, this is the first year that Misaki city has held a Tuna Fest but it was an awesome one! There were contests, sponsors, vendors and local entertainment that made for a fun, tuna-ingesting, day!

I ate several things including: tuna pizza (no joke,) raw tuna (sashimi,) tuna soup, tuna pot stickers (gyoza,) tuna sushi rolls (tekamaki,) and tuna fries!

Guess the weight! I submitted 252 kilos but this soon-to-be-a-piece-of-sushi was actually 312 kilos!

In addition to tuna, lots of other seafood was on sale including these squid which were being sold as-is or grilled and eaten on a stick.

I won a slab of tuna!!!
For 500 yen ($5) you got to pull one of a bunch of strings that ran through a pvc pipe. from the other end, the strings were attached to various prizes (box of sweet potatoes, dried aji fish, slab of salmon, mochi (pounded and dried rice blocks) wearing tee shirts, etc. The big prize was a valuable slab of maguro. I couldn't make up my mind and I had enamoto's son help me. Minamo picked the tuna which is chillin in my freezer until Matt comes home to cook it!

Misaki Port, Misaki Shi, Japan

2008-10-20T06:43:00.009+09:00

Yokosuka Mikoshi (Portable Shrine) Parade

Wow! I'm glad I finally dragged myself to Yokosuka Naval Base to see it! I've been to neighborhood matsuris where at most-I saw three mikoshi portable shrines accompanied by a few taiko drummers. But this is totally different! All the neighborhoods in Yokosuka city are invited to parade together beginning around the Yokosuka Chuo train station, down the main street before entering the base's smaller gate and continuing to where the festivities are, next to the Bowling Center.
There's a lot of noise, food booths on and off base and a truly fun crowd interested in experiencing and sharing each others' foreign culture. It gave me happy vibes as me and my friends, Tomo and Masumi, wandered around eating hamburgers and interacting with base visitors. One leader even grabbed me and tossed me into the line of people carrying the mikoshi. After a few bumpy minutes, I thanked him and resumed spectating, (I already did my mikoshi duties last year for three grueling city blocks, thanks!) I was also really stoked to see a lot of Americans. I'm guessing many are newbies that were wondering what the heck a mikoshi was because I answered a few curious gaijin's questions.
74 mikoshis in all were spiritfully carried before ending up in a parking lot. Behind me there are dozens of them still beating drums while in front of us, the parade continued for hours. Here's a video that captures the mayhem:

Yokosuka Naval Base, Yokosuka, Japan

2008-09-02T07:05:00.013+09:00

Little Edo

The Kitain Temple Pagoda. I just found out that pagodas are where they store the temple's Buddha! Or used to anyway...

Unagi, One of the foods (along with Sweet Potato) that Kawagoe is famous for. Above is Grilled Eel basted with a sweet soy sauce over rice, Oshinko (pickled veggies,) and an Eel Broth and Soy Soup with bits of the eel guts. Japanese enjoy eel in the summer because they feel that it supplies them with extra energy to combat the extreme humidity and heat.

Here's a shot of the "main drag" in this small town that captures one of the kurazukuri , fireproof merchant buildings, clustered on this street with the famous belltower in the background. These retro buildings are one of the reasons that this small town is nicknamed "Little Edo," because it has little alleys where you can feel like you're drawn back into a previous Japan.

The 500+ Royan are the five hundred plus statues of "Buddha's disciples" that are in a fenced in area next to the only remains of Edo Castle relocated to the Kitain Temple grounds. No two statues are alike and supposedly, if you visit the grounds at night and feel the heads, one statue will be warm while the others are cold. You should remember its location and visit the next day because that is the statue that best reflects your personality. Anyway, it's a cool place to visit and had a lot of history as well as picturesque spots.
A funny looking Rakan....I think he's had too much sake:)

Funny "engrish" always cracks me up. Thanks to the foot model, Yumi!

The only remaining piece of the Edo Castle. A view from a room to the garden. Taken illegaly I might add!

Kawagoe, Saitama Prefecture, Japan

2008-09-01T07:32:00.003+09:00

It Only Makes Sense...

...that I'd actually break my back and labor on Labor Day Weekend! With typhoon season announcing its arrival with four days of thunder and lightening, I decided it was time to get off my ass and tackle the twenty new bamboo trees that were taking over the backyard and probably pissing off my landlord--some of which had surpassed my second story bedroom window. Pretty? Yes. A nuisance during typhoon season? Yes. Not to mention that they destroy foundation and pipes (just ask the guys that had to come by when our bathroom toilet backed up--yummy!) and could come right through your floor!
I took this after three hours of cutting down and chopping up bamboo. This was the last of the big boys, so I thought I'd take this photo to show you how tall they can get and how quick! The foreground bamboo are about eight or nine feet tall and they last of the big boys is as tall as my roof.
My Jungle, Zushi

2008-09-01T07:20:00.003+09:00

Live Forever or Die Trying

Last year it was the Ginnan or ginko nut, this year it's Goya, a bitter melon that supposedly, is the secret to why Okinawaens (Okinawa being the southernmost island in Japan,) outlive all Japanese and the rest of the world. I was first turned on to this scary looking thing by Dave, of Dave Snaps fame two years ago but recently, Yumi's mom made something that was so delcious (no offense, Dave,) that it actually compelled me to cook! Above is my fourth go at getting the bitterness out of the Goya (thanks to a tip from a cook that I work with=squeeze and rinse...squeeze and rinse.) I figure it can't hurt to try to counter all of the chuhais and yakitori that I've consumed...

FYI: Ingredients include: Onion, Pork, Goya, Tofu, Eggs, Soy Sauce, Mirin, Sesame Oil and enjoyed best over a bowl of rice but equally delicious eaten alone while waiting for your rice to cook!)

My Kitchen, Zushi

2008-08-31T16:55:00.006+09:00

Billy Pot Pie
Eh. I usually don't put personal stuff on here. This site has always been a fun way to keep my friends abreast of the fun things we're doing while overseas in Japan. But almost two weeks ago, our dog Billy died suddenly from organ failure, presumably due to complications resulting from undiagnosed diabetes. We adopted her back in 2003 from a shelter in Spain after she was rescued from an air strip, full of heartworms, suffering from a hernia and some flesh wounds. She bounced from home to home until we picked her up.
Her death was especially tough becuase I didn't completely understand what was happening. With Matt sailing around the world and the Vet speaking broken English, I was robotic and perhaps naiive, under the impression that I'd be picking up Billy a few days later after she was nourished through an IV. That's one of the things about living overseas, our Vet clinic is only Mon-Fri until 4:30pm. I had no choice but to go to somebody that I didn't know and whom didn't speak the best English. I'm not a faithful nor trusting person but I had no choice but to hand my baby over to this guy and hope that him and his staff were competent. I have to believe that they were.
In the end, our friends the Takahashis were the best. They organized Billy's Buddhist ceremony and picked me up the day after she passed. It was an amazing cultural experience in itself but more importantly, helped me quickly start to start to heal. I love them. Thank you guys:)

Before I go back to blogging about food, drink and other stuff, I had first to mention why I've been away for awhile and also just to share how special Billy was to us. There are dogs and then there are "dogs." I'd like to give a shout out to the only dog we knew who could fly; to the dog who never barked; the dog who hated to wear a sweater but loved the snow; and to to the dog who didn't ask for more than a bowl of food and a daily belly scratch--thank you.

Billy Doing What She Does Best...Relaxing

Billy, Luci and A (My Sister) in March

Billy Van Vicious
? - August 18, 2008

2008-07-19T11:44:00.007+09:00

T O K Y O W E E K E N D E R

Day One: Ueno Park/AmeYoko Shopping Street

We got into Tokyo mid-morning last Friday for a last hoo-ra before Matt left for a looooooooooooong trip. After checking in, we had only a few hours before our dinner plans so we decided to knock out Ueno Park, basically the area of Japan with a cluster of museums. Our afternoon began here, at the National Museum of Western Art. There were a few Rodin sculptures in the courtyard, and a few lesser-known pieces by some Impressionists inside. We couldn've easily skipped this museum. The only notables were a few Monet's. It's fun just to stroll around the park. It's pretty big and has lots of sights for adults and kids.

The two photos above are of a Toshogu Shrine in Ueno Park. It featured a gazillion bronze and stone lanterns (including the third largest one in Japan nick-named "Monster Lantern," donated by warlords or something like that. There's a nice peace monument here with a flame that was carried from either Nagasaki or Hiroshima plus lots of moss covered, crumbling structures.

Ameyoko

This famous street started up as a blackmarket American goods area after WWII. That's the JR train line that runs above. Ueno station is nearby. It's spread out considerably since the 50's but you can see still remnants of its past. The name Ameyoko comes from "ame" for sweets and "yoko" for alley. There are still shops that sell all sorts of traditional Japanese treats but there are a lot of cheap clothing and fish markets here too. This is a great place to stock up on omiyage, or souvenirs to bring back to your colleagues and friends.

Day Two:
Tsukiji Fish Market
Tsukiji Fish Market was pretty dead when we arrived. It was upper eighties, extremely humid and I instantly regretted making the trek across Tokyo to get here. Stepping over fish blood and guts and dodging the occasional mini-truck hauling sealife carcuses, we breezed through and found ourselves by a demonstration of close to one thousand people. Apprently, there is talk of moving the market location which they oppose. Above is a traditional curtain advertising what the shop inside has for sale. And holy crap! Check out the size of those muscles!!!! Being total idiots, we stuffed ourselves with lunch before we got to Tsukiji, so we couldn't take advantage of the fresh restaurants steps from the market. I'm a foodie, but I think this place is for hard-core tourists...

Senkakuji Temple
The above picture was the most powerful thing I saw at the temple. This temple is so full of history but it's very modest, sorta modestly located in a neighborhood area near Shinagawa station that you could easily walk past it. But the story of "the 47 Ronin" whom are buried here is what draws people to visit. Every morning, incense is put at each gravesite and visitors do the same all day, every day. Here's a link to a short version of the story and I recommend you read it if you aren't familiar. Above is the well (covered with a metal net) in which the loyal Ronin washed Kira's head before presenting it on their master's grave. This gentleman has a great page with lots of photos including the festival on the same day that the Ronin avenged their master's death, December 14. Enough with the history, it's time for beer!!!

Ebisu Garden Place & Beer Museum
This place is pretty cool. Named after a quality beer made by Sapporo, the Ebisu Garden Place is a open-air mall-type structure with a few restaruants, shops, Sapporo Beer Headquarters and a Beer Museum. In the museum, you can see some cool vintage labels and retro factory fixtures, (seafoam green anyone?) and sample Sapporo beers for inexpensive prices.

Vintage ads were on display from 1910-2008. Of course I bought a print! I can't to frame our 1920's era ad of three women in kimonos clinking glasses of beer!

They had some vintage signs from when the Beer Museum was a beer factory. Also, there were some great Occupation photos of a beer hall where service members were sitting around drinking beer, probably right near this sign! Unfortunately, the cool retro photos were in a "no photography zone," so I didn't snap 'em.

Now, back the air conditioned hotel please.....

Tokyo, Japan

2008-07-19T11:21:00.003+09:00

Vintage Suntory

This old drink machine was in front of somebody's house in Yamanashi prefecture. It looks early eighties to me. We don't see to many canned drinks like that Pocari Sweat can in the middle, but when I grew up here, all drinks came in skinny, tall cans. If you haven't been, there are great sites in this beautiful prefecture. Enzan City is a great place to explore but it might be listed as Koshu on newer maps. If you're a samurai buff--you gotta go!
Enzan, Koshu City, Japan

2008-07-10T17:00:00.004+09:00

In America, he's Godzilla, but in Japan, he's:
GO-JEE-LA !!!
(this one's for my dad)

When I first moved to Japan, I found this rad site with old b&w photos of the Yokosuka area including a photo of a Godzilla slide on a beach in Kannonzaki. The site mentioned a new Godzilla slide (circa '99) that mimicked the beach slide that had since been demolished circa '73. The last two weeks, Matt and I have spent bopping around the area checking out the things that were on our to-do list, albeit in the "if I ever run out of daytrips" section. We finally made the hike to Kurihama Flower World. Screw the herb garden, the poppies, the gorgeous views of the bay--we were here to see Godzilla in his new home--and marvel at the architectural splendor!!! (Adrienne: he looks just like that little toy we had that blew sprarks from his mouth!!!)

Kurihama, Yokosuka City, Japan

2008-07-10T11:20:00.003+09:00

Enoshima Island Haiku:
Land of tourist traps,
Kitschy sites, souvenir shops
Mosquitos and cats

We spent Tuesday trekking to Enoshima, an island located in the Sagami Bay which is the same bay our city of Zushi located on. I heard from a few people that this is a fun day trip. The ride on the quirky Enoden train line and the views from Enoshima were nice. The touristy crap wasn't so cool but it made for a nice hike. There's a really good rotating sushi bar on the second floor of the building located at the entrance to the island, just on the right.

Enoshima, Japan

2008-07-09T09:17:00.002+09:00

Scenes from a Matsuri:
The Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival

On Monday, we went to Hiratsuka City for one of the largest Tanabata festivals. The highlight of this four-day festival are the beautiful decorations, (many that light up with moving parts or sounds,) the dozens of groups of dancers that parade the streets and of course-the matsuri tents with carnie food!!!

Hiratsuka City, Japan

2008-06-18T18:16:00.002+09:00

I Will Have Nightmares Tonight

This morning, I saw this giant spider as I was washing my hair. Our bath sorta juts out into a garden area and the glass is next to the wall of our living room. This spider found her happy zone there. It's warm, flat, protected and she can see any prey/predators coming from below. I thought she killed a bug and was wrapping it up for later but after googling up a storm I learned the truth.

She's got babies! Those are Matt's sausage palms to show you how big the spider is but I think it's a bad angle. Honestly, this spider is at LEAST six inches in diameter! She's got a flat disc of 200 little babies wrapped up in there. Yuck! I hate spiders that have long legs and especially ones that are big enough that I can make out details like hair, spots, feelers, EYES--freaking gross!
If you are interested in the topic, here are some nice links. They made me gag and vomit but hey--go for it: Wikipedia's Page and Another Scary Photo
Oh, and in case you're wondering: she's been there for at least 16 hours now. I guess she'll be there until she has her babies.
~for Brandon!~

UPDATE: Matt heroically got the mama spider into a cooler and transported her to a hill near our house. Safe at last...

2008-06-10T10:29:00.005+09:00

"Nice" Pachinko Ruins
Nirasaki, Yamanashi Prefecture

I had to Photoshop this photo (equalizer to bring out the foreground) since I use a digital camera and no knowledge of how to use it. I love taking photos but I'm a lazy photographer. My enjoyment comes from the experience of wandering around alone and blogging. One of these days, I'll buy an expensive camera and learn to take the photos that I know I have inside me.

This is the foyer of the Pachinko parlor. Unfortunately, the place was locked up tight:( There were rows of pachinko machines inside and this cool, pink retro phone too!
This giant parking lot overlooks a statue store and not much else...
A bunch of local birds have turned this small shack into their home. It sat in the back of the parking lot so I'm guessing it's either for cashing in your pachinko balls or getting your parking validated. Translation anyone??? Dave? Yumi? Can you comment if you know?

2008-06-08T20:37:00.008+09:00

Trials Comp Nirasaki...

Muddy and Mucky!
It's hot, extremely humid and there is NOTHING around save a tiny convenience store. We drove through torrents of rain at 0530 in the a.m. to have the rain stop literally 5 minutes before the comp began. Lucky? Perhaps. It meant that for the next six hours, we'd sweat while squishing our way though mud and puddles while trekking from each course to the next.

A judge takes a time out on a large stone, part of an old castle that stood in this location hundreds of years ago. The comp utilized the ruins in some comp sections.

The castle ruins sit in a small valley flanked by lush mountains, filled with rice patties with a view of Mount Fuji which we didn't see until the next day.

This small town/village is in Yamanashi prefecture and is famous for delicious fruits and so-so wine. There were all sorts of fruit trees but the only thing bearing fruit were the plum trees and chestnut trees. That's a chestnut above--Yeeowch!
Rice Seedlings and Bird

Again...lotsa rice patties....

Oh yeah, this post is about Matt's comp! Here's a photo of him navigating a slippery slope and rock obstacle. He didn't come in dead last this time which means he's getting better! :) (Nirasaki, Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan)

2008-06-07T22:04:00.002+09:00

Neighborhood Matsuri (Street Fair)
Since I had to work today for a few hours, we couldn't stray too far from home. We checked out a small matsuri near Yokosuka base and brought the dogs to stretch our legs. Here's a view of some locals carrying their mikoshi, portable shrine, and "blessing" different businesses. Behind them is a smaller version for the kids. Cute! (Shiori Station, Yokosuka)

Matsuri food is a lot like carnival or fair food in the states. You can't help but gorge but even as you swallow, you know you'll regret it. I always approach street fairs with gusto but abandon my purchases after a few dissatisfied bites. The one thing I always finish is the shaved ice. My tastebuds were honed in this country,and this is the only place that gets the flavors right!

Modern Matsuri Gear
These cuties were sipping beverages while managing traffic.

Octopus? Octopi? Octopusses?
Hundreds of baby octopus/octopi/octopusses gave their lives in the ultimate sacrifice: Takoyaki!
I think of this stuff as ultimate matsuri food. Slathered in mayo, dried bonito fish flakes, sweet pickled ginger and maybe some seaweed seasoning, it's total street fair food: fatty, sweet, bloat-inducing and awesome. Besides, it makes people back in the states cringe in horror. Okay, fine! You win! That's the real reason I eat it!

Foreground: The main ingredient
Middle: The finished product
Background: Work in progress

2008-05-20T12:03:00.002+09:00

Yabusame & Yakitori:
There are Those Who Shoot and Those Who Simply Eat Shoots

Yabusame is one of "the things" to do in our area. I'm sure it's quite a sight to see if you get off your butt and get to Kamakura at least five hours early so you can sit in front. We arrived an hour and a half before the ceremonies and the only thing we saw was a blur as the contestents zipped by our twenty foot gap.

With achy feet and a four-foot Ma Chan who could only see treetops and armpits, we decided to go get food and drink satisfied with the "been there done that" bragging rights.

This is the runway. In between contestents, people were allowed to cross it. Unfortunately, this is the best view we saw of the competition.

We decided to step outside our comfort zone of chicken hearts and knee cartilage and try this special raw liver. The chickens have some sort of diet that makes their livers really white. Verdict: Not too shabby. This is the ONE and ONLY time I've slightly enjoyed liver. Of course, anything is great when you have a nice draft beer to wash it down!

Rainy season is here and that means lots of bamboo shoots are springing up everywhere! It's a lot like the artichoke: You work your butt off for this little gem of a morsel burried in the middle but damn if it ain't worth it! These shoots were quartered, speared and grilled over charcoal and touched with a little miso (secret) sauce before serving. Delicious!

What it's like to be a dish in a Yakitori restaurant.
(ooooh....artsy!)

Snapped during a very colorful session of "Pick on Tomo," Ma Chan's boyfriend. (If I have to explain the joke to you, you're too young, too naive or simply not a friend of mine.)

One of Tomo's Many Shirts with Great "Engrish"
He's got another with the same phrase plastered across the front of a bright yellow tee. I guess he showed up to go with Ma Chan to the Yokosuka open base event and she gasped in horror and made him buy another shirt before entering the base. ha-ha!
(Hideyoshi Yakitori, Kamakura)

2008-04-19T11:47:00.002+09:00

Flats McFarlane's First Comp!

Last Saturday, we took off at Midnight and drove to Motegi where they have this big race track compound owned by Honda Motors. They test race cars, motorcycles, host competitions and have recreation stuff. Matt's bike trials competition was in a recreation area called "Hello Woods." On two hour's sleep, he competed all day! Motegi is several hour's North so I got to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom...like a bonus round!

Behind us is the number one ranked Japanese trials bike rider. His father is a champ of the original trials style on motor bikes. Those are the sons of Enamoto San, a guy that Matt befriended riding one day. His kids are both into the sport. They are a genuinely nice family and Enamoto San took care of registering Matt and everything!

Matt's practicing for the next comp in May. I'm stoked to watch him compete, see the elite level riders do their thing plus explore new sections of Japan that I'd otherwise not see. Gambate Mattoo San!(that's what the boys call him:)
(Motegi Speedway, Japan)

2008-03-30T21:21:00.005+09:00

Just When I Thought Japan Couldn't Get Any Better...

...they go and invent this stuff! Yes! It's self-heating sake on-the-go! Perfect for two gals looking to get a little toasted while soaking in the Zen, Kamakura atmosphere. This nifty invention is some sort of physics miracle with a cup of sake in the middle. You turn it over, remove the seal, push the button and flip it over. Wait patiently for two minutes (one if you're my boozie sis,) and open the lid to enjoy nice, steaming sake on a mildly chilly March morn...

I think my hiragana is getting better (or Adrienne's constant nagging for katsudon made me more aware,) because I've never noticed this restaurant right outside the Hase stop on the Enoden line yet I've been here a dozen times and he's been here that many years at least. There was only one fella running the line, serving, cleaning and ringing up the fifteen seats and yet it was packed. It's pricey at twelve bucks but that man does something to his bonito stock because that's the best damn katsudon I've ever had!

Here's an obligatory photo of my smelly sister stinking up the beautiful photo of the Hasedera temple. (Just checking to see if she's reading my blog like she promised to. If not, I take it back--she really does reek a bit. )

"Brochure-inspired," but it's hard not to....

I always feel annoyed when I meet gaijins that haven't at least been to this location when living in the Miura Peninsula. It's like living in Florida but never seeing Gatorland.
On second thought, it's like living in California but never visiting Disneyland. You know what, forget it. It's just lame! (Daibutsu, Kamakura)
What the f-? How'd we end up here? Yumi, that's how! She knows I'll try anything and she's an awesome saleswoman! Next thing you know I've got THIS in front of me! Oh, and if you still haven't figured it out--that's an entire hoof of a pig. Nails, claws, talons--whatever! It's a mass of marrow, bone, nails, fat, skin and a bit of meat. In case you don't understand my reaction...
...maybe now you will. It's HUGE right?! So I've got to be polite and make a decent dent in this thing while Yumi and her parents nod approvingly and I look to my loyal little sister and motion to her like "dig in and help me why don't you?" Her reaction was "I'm full, sorry, not another bite!" What a traitor! So I downed bits of marrow and fat and sucked on pig nails for for an hour (Yumi was quick to point out that there was "much more to eat," halfway through,) before admitting that I was finished. Thanks Takahashi's for my first (and last) pig foot ever and thanks to my little sister FOR ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. (Hideyoshi Yakitori, Kamakura)

2008-03-05T11:57:00.001+09:00

"White Snow and Black Eggs"

Hakone was coated in a thick layer of fluffy white powder yesterday. Luckily, it was the day that Hideyoshi closes so Yumi and her parents drove A and I up the foot of Mt Fuji and one of the "Fuji Five Lakes," for a day of sightseeing! At Hakone Jinja, Adrienne and I got fortunes that were identical! Out of over one hundred available types, we both grabbed #46 (Daijo!) out of a box that read we'd have the best fortune available!

This is a kurotamago (black egg,) that is cooked in the hot spring water heated by lava. Something makes the egg's shell black but the egg is totally delicious. Each egg you gobble gives the eater seven extra years of life! As we started descending the mountain, a few large flakes came swirling past us. Within seconds, it was a flurry of soft, powdery snow!!! What a wonderful experience as the powder was totally different from the icy snow we got here a few weeks ago. Adrienne hasn't seen snow in fifteen years so it was a real treat for her!

Our final visit was to a famous soba (buckwheat noodle,) restaurant in a two story traditional Japanese home. We sat on tatami floors, sipping brown tea before eating tempura udon, above. Two large shrimp are battered, fried and placed in a hot bowl of fish stock with some local veggies. Sounds of slurping filled the room and within minutes, we were all fat and happy.
 

2008-02-20T11:49:00.004+09:00

Some of the ugliest things taste the best!

Chikuwa: Sounds cute, looks repulsive but tastes DELISH!
This is a tube that the Japanese consider to be a "fish cake." It's part of a kelp stew called oden that is popular when it's chilly. I've had these at low-end places where they are like chewing on sponges. This one was meaty, not fishy at all and changed my mind about the funky looking fish cake.

Pass Me the Sake, I'm Going In...
I like nothing better than eating something that my Japanese friends assumed that I wouldn't. I think I do it more for their surprised expressions and exclamations of "Eeeehhhhh! Jessica ate that?" This is diced, raw octopus marinated with the wasabe radish. Verdict: once you get past that slimy start, it's killer! The bursts of spicy wasabe are fun!

The Best Gyoza I've Ever Had!
Okay, this isn't ugly but I had to share it anyway. After blossom viewing, we ended up at this Chinese-themed restaurant and ordered gyoza (pot-stickers,) with flour made with shiso, the fragrant and delicious leaves that it seems, the Japanese eat with everything!

2008-02-19T14:20:00.001+09:00

2008-02-16T23:58:00.004+09:00

Ramen for Breakfast: The Animal Edition!

"Animals think...they're pretty smart
Sh*t on the ground...see in the dark"
~The Talking Heads~
(to see the entire song lyrics...go to the end of the post)

while my folks were here in Dec/Jan, we were at Hachimangu Shrine when Matt disappeared for several minutes to take photos of squirrels. (If you really know Matt, this doesn't surprise you.) Look at the look on this guy's face! It's total wonder and confusion and yet--he looks like the cutest little stuffed toy ever, doesn't he? Aw...Japan....even the squirrels are adorable!

Forget double negatives, this sentence is beyond fixing! After much thought, my dad and I finally figured out that if you DON'T have a pet, you CAN'T sit here which is exactly the OPPOSITE of what this cafe meant to say. "
A few weeks ago, Matt finally nagged me into hiking this trail behind our house. It's six miles long and is full of climb after climb. The view from the top was worth it and I think we got above a smog line or something because my lungs haven't expanded that fully in a looooong time. It literally hurt so good to get a fresh breath breath of air! We hiked past temples and shrines, a small creek and ended near a rock climbing area, "Shonan Takatori" maybe??? Since our friend Liz remarked that I never mention Matt in RFB--here he is, Liz--alive and well!

Animals Lyrics

2008-02-10T10:48:00.000+09:00

This is a melon. In a supermarket. For roughly $115 American dollars.

It's the norm to give fruits as gifts here in Japan. My Japanese colleagues and Mat and my Japanese friends present tangerines, apple pears, strawberries, persimmons and other fruits as "thank you" gifts, souvenirs from travel and especially when dining at our house instead of the American standard--a bottle of wine or flowers. You're probably wondering "well, does it at least taste as much as it costs?" Most of the time, yeah. The grapes from Katsunuma for example, taste amazing and don't come cheap. Japanese apple pears come individually wrapped in Styrofoam netting and, at five dollars or more a piece, will pour juice down your arm after the first bite. Nobody has bought me a hundred dollar mellon yet but if you plan to--don't. Buy me a premium bottle of sake will ya?!?

2008-02-04T22:46:00.001+09:00

A Golden Sh*t to Celebrate the New Year

---------------------------------

Perched on a shelf in the living room is a tiny creature made of glass. It's a handcrafted, adorably round pig (buta in Japanese if you bother to learn anything while reading my silly posts,) a gift from my good friend Yumi to celebrate the New Year. So why does a seemingly sophisticated, world-traveled kinda gal give her friend (tomodachi if you're taking notes,) a chubby pig with a pile of golden poop (unchi if you're a teacher's pet,)as a gift? Well, we'll ask Yumi to step up, comment and make it all clear to us.

Yumi??????

2008-02-03T18:21:00.000+09:00

What a Wonderful Surprise (and so much for Setsubun!)

We woke up to a rather cold house. I could barely wipe the crust from my eyes before I heard "Jessica Chan get down here now!" I threw off the covers anticipating that somebody had robbed us before Matt finished "There's snow EVERYWHERE!"We spent the morning making "yukidaruma," watching Luci try to chase snowflakes and destroy our snowman and cuddling in the living room watching the snow fall.
We were pllanning on throwing soybeans at devils and dining on yakitori in Kamakura but will have to wait again for Setsubun 2009:)

2008-01-27T12:08:00.000+09:00

The "Rents"...the Final Chapter

My folks departed earlier in the month. We spent their last day bouncing around Kita Kamakura from temple to temple before finishing off the day with dinner at Hideyoshi.

According to dad, these are old storage houses for crops and stuff.

Monks' Shoes

Pretty Pattern

Daffodils were one of the only flowers blooming, but Plum Blossoms are coming soon!

My folks on top of a hill overlooking a temple.

This fella brought us this milky, unfiltered sake with ginger. He said it was to wake us up for the new year or something like that. It was really sweet with chunks of rice cut by the spicy ginger bits. If anything, it warmed up our appetites for dinner!

Somebody Important's Tomb (If You Know Who, Please Comment)

The sun set quickly while we were at Engaku Temple behind the main drag in Kamakura.

New Year's decorations for sale.

Sign from a ramen vendor. There were all sorts of vendors with food and New Year's decorations/good luck charms. I bought a good luck charm for my car which is a popular thing to do.

This was pretty lucky! I was about to toss my ten yen and ring the bell to wish for a longer life when these two gentlemen showed up to decorate the brand new rope! I got to be one of the first people to ring the bell after he decorated it with various good fortunes.

Sweet Finish to a Great Day: After our meal at Hideyoshi Yakitori, Yumi's parents presented us with delicious dried kaki, or persimmons. See all that sugar? I though that after the kaki were dried, they were rolled in powdered sugar. Yumi's mom explained that that sugar comes from the fruit itself during the long drying process

2008-01-03T09:04:00.001+09:00

Part Two:

Sign outside Yokosuka Naval Base Society of Manners....I like that!

Doing Major Damage at the Sushi Bar in Odawara
A Sympathetic Wipe

Mito, Tiny Fishing & Farmer Village Near our First Japanese Home
This tiny town's port looks at Mt Fuji straight on. The steps to the temple were only fifty yards from the beach and the view from the small temple stares straight to the bay and Mt Fuji. There were several very, very old statues with faded carvings and an old well covered in small statues and weather-beaten decorations.
Some of the Dozens of Decorations on the Well

2007-12-26T06:19:00.000+09:00

The 'Rents: Part Ichi

My folks came out a week ago and it's been a whirlwind of eating, toasting and sightseeing. We strolled down the street for awesome ramen and beer their first night in town. They opted for the chashumen, (pork and fried noodles,) and Matt and I had gomokuramen which is a ton of different meats and veggies with fried noodles. (Zushi, Japan)

The Best Birthday Yet!

We spent the night at our friends' restaurant in Kamakura. They are some of the nicest people we know and the shop always has good food, nice customers and great atmosphere. We ate and drank all night and they even had a beautiful cake with "happy birthday jessica chan" written on an edible white chocolate card! It was a great night and truly special. THANKS:) (Kamakura)

Pears Skate?

Temple in Kanazawa Hakeii

Yakiniku: DIY Dining

I'm pretty sure this has caught on already in the USA: You sit down to a table with a gas grill embedded in the middle controlled by a knob on the side of the table. Food comes at you raw, in bite-sized portions and you cook it and eat it right off the grill. We had all kinds of meat and veggies last night including this cut of chicken. It's a sliver of cartilage with some tasty white bits of meat. With only a little salt, it's moist, crunchy and DELICIOUS! (Kanazawa Hakeii)
Much, much more photos coming soon...

2007-12-11T20:46:00.001+09:00

Chawamushi: Yep, It's Got Gin Nan in it!!!

This was taken at the Ashida family's new restaurant, (the couple with the turtle.) They moved a few months ago and still have delicious food featuring seasonal, local ingredients albeit a bit further down the road from the train station.

Chawamushi, usually served in a small cup, varies in ingredients but I think the foundation is consistent: Hon dashi (bonito fish) stock and egg. Their's features local mushrooms, green stems, plum leaf (?) and of course, ginko nuts (just one--kinda like the prize in a cracker jack box.) The first time we had Chawamushi was in Osaka with my parents' friend, Takabe San. I remember being fascinated by the layers of egg in this small bowl with a different ingredient combination in each layer. (Ashida's restaurant in Yokosuka, Japan)

2007-12-11T20:35:00.000+09:00

I'd Like to Introduce You to...Mochi

I know the food is hard to see, but it's mochi, pounded rice that becomes a mushy mass. It's used in desserts, candy, crackers and even dried and cut into little squares that are grilled before eating like Yumi's mom is presenting above. These dense squares were toasted on the yakitori grill then drizzled with soy sauce and topped with chopped seaweed. Very, very good! The flavors are simple, the food is filling and it's comforting during the winter. Pounding rice into mochi is a New Year's tradition in Japan. If anybody wants to invite us to mochi pounding on the first...ahem....we're available. (Hideyoshi Yakitori Shop, Kamakura Japan)

2007-12-08T15:27:00.000+09:00

Yamanashi & Kita Kamakura Photos are Uploaded:

Yamanashi

Kita Kamakura

2007-12-02T21:00:00.000+09:00

Yamanashi Prefecture Two-Day Getaway

This is the home of the famous Samurai, Takeda, and family. It was truly one of the best temples I've ever been to. Plus, we got to walk around most of the house which is very rare. This is the backyard. I can't imagine that it's more beautiful any other season.

Here's a glimpse of the gorgeous colors that Yumi and I saw all over the prefecture. There were many red and yellow maple trees plus splashes of color on the only three trees bearing fruit: Quince, Apple and Persimmon.

This place was my favorite thing that we saw in two days. This temple was amazing. The garden was laid out perfectly. Despite the season, it was still gorgeous.

I always think these things are so cool and mean to take photos of them to share with you guys. Anyway, this is a "drain" that guides the rain water from the roof to the ground. It's really pretty to watch the water trickle down and I wonder why traditional homes opt for this instead of an ugly pipe...

Finally! A true Japanese breakfast! I enjoyed: sweet potato, baby okra, lotus root, two types of seaweed, various root vegetables, nato (fermented beans,) salted cabbage, miso soup, sweet red bean, white rice and green tea for my breakfast at the resort.
Last night, we soaked in a mineral bath on the balcony overlooking the valley. It was really, really cool and liberating. I felt like a Japanese lady in a woodblock work of art.

This is the view from the door of our room. To the left is the bathroom, to the right, the shoe rack and straight ahead the living area. It's full tatami or straw matt floors. We slept on futons, and hung out and went to the onsen (community baths,) in our yukata (informal kimonos.) Thee only thing in the room was a low coffee table, a few cushions and a tv. We watched some Angelina Jolie (the only thing in English so I could comprehend,) movie before passing out after a French-inspired meal that burst our guts.

Seriously. Beautiful. And this is November folks, NOVEMBER!

All over were strings of "kaki," or persimmon as we Americans call it. According to Yumi (we'll have to believe what she says for we have no alternative,) there are several types of persimmon: while some are delicious off the branch, these are bitter. So, locals dry them and then they are enjoyed later when they are get a bit sweeter. We sampled some and although I didn't like them as a child, they are quite yummy to me now.

Did you think there wouldn't be a photo of me and sake?!?! Ha!
This sake holds the symbol (crest) of the Takeda family, one of the most famous samurai in Japanese history. So you see, I'm doing it for culture's sake...drinking the sake I mean.

"Houtou" This is the dish that the area is known for. It's a wonderful flour noodle hot-pot with veggies and meats including a local "cabocha" vegetable that I think is like our acorn squash. Anyway, the squash, noodles, carrots, several Japanese mushrooms and green onion are cooked together with some chicken or pork plus the chubby, white udon noodles. You simply use a wooden ladle and chopsticks to dish some into a small bowl and then slurp and munch down.
So, so, SO GOOD!!!!
(Yamanashi Prefecture, Can't be More Specific Because Yumi Was in Charge and I Was Just Along for the Ride...)

2007-12-02T18:41:00.000+09:00

Kita Kamakura

Faded writing on a torii gate

At the "divorce temple," a place where women could escape bad marriages and become nuns in a time where divorce was not allowed.

Steps leading to a mausoleum. Most were lost in fires or a flood but a few remained in this old temple.

There are a few trees that blossom in the winter. This one (peach I think,) is a little early. The rest of tree appeared dead but there were a few early petals determined to open.

2007-11-25T12:21:00.000+09:00

Colas, Teas (fruit, bean, leaf, barley), Coffees, Ice Cream,
Soups, Juice, Sports Drinks, Liquid Vitamins...

These are just a few of the things you can find at this line of vending machines! I often read the cliche about vending machines as a reflection of the Japanese and value of convenience and instant gratification. I won't take credit for coming up with it but I will agree. I haven't seen the machines with undergarments yet but I'm looking... (Kamakura, Japan)

2007-11-25T10:54:00.000+09:00

Gin Nan: My Current Obsession
On Veteran's Day (Nov 12) I went to Kita Kamakura, a less visited section of Kamakura. At the "divorce temple," as I call it, I leaned over an antique water pump that nuns used to pump water to bathe. Months after the ginkgo trees in this region had dropped their fruit, the old, giant tree above the well had a few left to spare. This temple is situated between two large hills and lots of foliage which is maybe why it lagged in bearing fruit. Yumi's uncle just aquired six lbs of ginko nuts for me and I'm eating about twenty a week. I'm totally obsessed and fear that I'll never touch them again after my obsession subsides! (Rest of photos can be viewed here)

2007-11-13T18:36:00.000+09:00

Japan: Where Everything is Small Except the Insects...

When discussing godzilla-sized spiders, SciFi centipedes or houseflies that could crack a windshield, I always make a joke about how small the country, the cars, the streets, the Japanese themselves--everything!--is except for the insects. It's true! Take this moth for instance. It was sitting on a wall outside our bathroom window (not where one tinkles, but where one bathes/showers but that's a whole 'nother post,) probably a good nine feet from where we were, and yet we could see it. The thing was at least seven inches wide. I was too chicken to look at it but Matt got his eyes a few inches away and said that those circles were like reflectors with layers of color. Warning: The next insect post will definitely be the infamous huntsman spider and the "to kill or not to kill" debate. Stay tuned.

2007-10-15T22:12:00.000+09:00

Limeys Sell Out Too!

I took these photos on my cell phone on low resolution while I suffered through the worst allergy attack of my life in the middle of the Japanese version of Walmart. So enjoy my brief post and fuzzy photos then forgive me and move on.
That's Keira Knightly, some emaciated chick from the terrible Pirates of the Caribbean flix. They Photoshopped in some flesh and hair then tacked on a mermaid tail so she could push that Lux shampoo that J Lo was pushing awhile back. On a standee display near the checkout area was Orlando Bloom hawking some kind of hair wax. I think they found the only angle where this guy doesn't look like a douche. Sorry if I'm in a foul mood.  Matt's gone so I'm back on my diet of 7-11 katsudon and chuhais.
Oh...and if Walmarts across America added surreal second floors full of trendy showcase rooms where the cheapest coffee table was three hundred dollars and yet the bottom floor was still the linoleum and fluorescent discount mecca as usual....that would be Homes, a.k.a. Japanese Walmart.

2007-10-06T20:34:00.001+09:00

The Tale of the Ginkgo Nut
or
"Why I Sorted Through Rotting Fruit That Smelled
Like Dog Feces on My Only Day Off"
Squished orange splotches along the road alerted me to the annual falling of the ginkgo fruit this year. It's a hoot to drive around Yokosuka and spot the occasional American stepping around the horrifically smelling fruit. Some check their shoe for dog poo; others curiously stare wondering if it's a weird Japanese kumquat or badly decomposed cherry. Me? Well, I had anticipated this, literally, all year long remembering how I missed out last year. Stick with me on this long post as I take you through the ginkgo nut harvest and the wonderful pay off in the end...

This photo is the second round of ginnan, or ginkgo nuts, that I gathered in a week. This tree's fruit were a tad bigger than a cherry; the other tree's fruit were the size of chocolate covered peanuts. So, this photo was the score! I suppose the fruit only begins to smell after it falls from the tree where it quickly begins to ripen and rot. The smell is like baby poop, dog poop and vomit scrambled together and left in the hot sun. I'm not exaggerating. II suppose many people pop the nut out there on the spot but being the novice that I am, I took the bags home where they stunk up my car, turned my garage into a stench hole and made my kitchen reek for days.

After the most grueling task of removing the flesh from the fruit, (forget double bagging-try eight!) I then rubbed the nuts together in my hands under running water. This only took a few minutes. I then spread the nuts out on a towel to let them dry and turn white. I followed some foodie blog's instructions by the way. At this point, they resemble pistachios.
Now the second most tedious part: shelling. It's not like I own a teeny tiny nutcracker for situations like this so I had to use my molars. (Thanks mom for stressing dental hygiene my entire youth,) If you bite too hard, you instantly break the gentle nut... They are now a nice off-white, bordering yellow color with think husks.
I've only had them two ways: in a stir fry made by a Japanese lady and on a stick grilled yakitory-style. I decided to toss them in a hot cast iron skillet with a few drops of olive oil and a dusting of salt. In about a minute, they change from an off-white to a light yellow and gradually become a beautiful jade green. As they become less opaque and start to look almost glassy, you know they're done.
And that's the story of the ginkgo nut. The next time you're in the pharmacy isle of your local supermarket or drugstore, you'll know why a ginkgo supplement costs so damn much.

2007-09-06T15:48:00.000+09:00

You Say Hurricane; We Say "Typhoon"

This is only the second typhoon I've had to deal with since our move to Japan a year and a half ago. Matt has to leave when one is coming near which means (joy!) I get to move everything indoors and buckle down on my own. The eye is supposed to hit about 30-50 miles from us which means this should be more exciting, wet and windy than the last one. I did get the day off work though...

Click the image below to see a larger version. There are two red dots: one being the eye of the typhoon and the other, our town.

Click here to see the storm in motion...
Emergency Supplies:

Rather than fill up the tub with water, I filled up the fridge with beer. Instead of canned goods, I opted for Japanese potato chips and ramen (not pictured.) The pups are good too with plenty of rawhide chews and dog food. I did get my lighters, bottled water and candles stockpiled...just in case.

2007-09-03T16:28:00.001+09:00

Gifu & Itadori Trip

Click the image to view the Itadori/Gifu Album:

2007-09-03T11:57:00.000+09:00

Ukai Fishing in Twelve Seconds

2007-09-03T09:53:00.000+09:00

Pissing Off P.E.T.A.(again)

Last weekend, we went to Gifu, (A few hours west of Tokyo,) an hour outside Itadori, a rustic town filled with rivers that sits in pine tree coated mountains. Our purpose for the journey was to see the World Bike Trials Championships in Itadori, a sport that Matt is passionate about. (Click here to see the photos from the event.) The closest hotels were in Gifu and since I wasn't about to camp in 90+ degree weather, we stayed in the city. The first night, we lucked out and got reservations on a boat trip to watch cormorant, or "ukai" fishing, a method of fishing for delicious ayu that's over 1300 years old. This lantern shot was taken on our flat bottomed boat but also decorated many small shops and restaurants in the area, the ukai being a symbol of the city.

Attached to strings linked to the choker around their neck, the ukai dive into the shallow water to catch the shy ayu. Full moons and swollen lakes mean the fishing is canceled. The fishing master watches the birds carefully and quickly begins to untangle the many strings in his hand to pull a bird toward the boat if it has a fish. It looks a bit rough, but he then forces the fish from the throat and pushes the bird back to the water where it quickly starts fishing again. They claim the birds are very spoiled, live longer than the ones without careers in tourism and eat very well after they finish working.
We got to paddle down the river next to this boat for a good five minutes. It was pitch black except for the blazing cluster of pine wood at the front of each boat, a near-full moon, the lit castle perched atop the mountain along the river and the glowing paper lanterns on each boat. There was some spooky, japanese banjo and flute music filtering down from the castle and oddly, I could only hear the music, the quiet splashing of the cormorants and the cooing noises that the boat master was calling to them. I felt like I was back in time a few hundred years and the entire boat of people behind me didn't exist. I was surprised when I played the video I took and heard all the chatter that I'd tuned out while I floated along next to the fishing boat.

Here's the standard method to cook the small sweetfish: bamboo skewered, heavily salted and grilled over super-hot charcoal. The fish is truly delicious and needs nothing more than the salt. We had it again later that night at an izakaya near the hotel. (Gifu, Japan)

2007-08-15T19:38:00.001+09:00

A Whale of a Lunch Break

Yesterday, my boss took his admin staff out to a rotating sushi bar not too far down the peninsula. Above is whale sushi. When I asked my coworker what part of the whale, she raised her arm and pointed to the area directly below her armpit. So, I guess it's rib meat or lower-pit...take your pick! It was yummy!

Here's our table with the sushi belt behind my colleague, Makiko. In front of the menu/sign is an intercom. No need to wait for a server to happen by your table--just buzz and command your order and the kitchen will handle the rest. It's Magic! It's Instant! It's Japan!

Here are a few more cellphone snaps of what I ate. The tuna belly was of course--delish--and the minced Salmon was a new one for me and equally oishi. (Rotating Sushi Bar in Uraga, Japan)

2007-08-12T20:23:00.000+09:00

What the Hell IS This?

Yes of course I know what it is! I ate it! But when Yumi put this down in front of Matt and I and with a devilish grin said "it's gift from my father--please eat," well, I was scared.
So, just to mess with you guys, I'm not going to tell you what it is. Feel free to leave a comment with your guess. When I leave another post in a few days, I'll end the suspense......or not.
(Hideyoshi Yakitori, Kamakura)

2007-08-12T15:53:00.000+09:00

"You Ate WHAT?" Poll Results
-------------------------------------------------
Here are the poll results from 14 unique voters:

Sushi, (the kind with raw fish) 50%
Snails, Snakes or Something Slimy 50%
Horse Meat 21%
Something Else 21%
Something that Was Still Alive 14%
Some Insect 7%
Kangaroo 7%
Dog Meat (Chinese Food Doesn't Count) 0%

-------------------------------------------------
I know one reader has had dog for certain; I'm guessing she didn't take test? (Mom???)

2007-08-12T15:45:00.000+09:00

How The Japanese Poop

I posted this photo for two reasons: one, it illustrates a significant cultural difference between us and the Japanese--poop. Yup, we draw poop in a Mr. Hankie sense, a long or short log, usually brown in color. The Japanese illustrate poop as a pile similar to soft-serve ice cream. I've seen "unchie" drawn all colors of the rainbow, usually light brown or pink though. Also, toy machines, cartoons and stuffed toys also feature cute piles of poop, usually with arms and hands.
The second reason is that I, like this sign outside a bar in Yokosuka, am busy. I've been working hard at the new job and volunteering with this event: www.yokosukapatriotproject.blogspot.com
I'll have some new photos and experiences posted soon...try to control your anticipation. :)
(Chuhai Bar, Yokosuka)

2007-07-25T15:18:00.000+09:00

Don't Tell PETA

If you are one of those types that couldn't vote in the last poll because the strangest thing you've had to eat was Chinese buffet...well brace yourself. Matt and I had raw horse meat last weekend. Although it was difficult to eat, (figuratively, not literally,) we repressed everything our culture taught us and swallowed it down. It was rich, sweet, and overall pretty tasty but I will never, ever eat it again. Watching the look on Matt's face made it really hard to enjoy... (Hideyoshi Yakitori, Kamakura)

2007-07-14T13:25:00.000+09:00

You Ate What?

There's a new survey to the right in which I've turned the tables and want to know what you've had to eat? You can vote for multiple things so click each one if you've tried it... If you've consumed something creepy that isn't listed, comment on this post and tell me! I'd say there's a prize for the gnarliest food mentioned but I'd be lying.

Oh yeah, this photo was taken in Paris two years ago on my final night there. I'd been looking for escargo, (snails,) the entire duration of my trip! I'd had snails before in our hometown, el Puerto de Santa Maria, Spain, but in a tomato-based sauce. In Paris they were in an oil and butter sauce with some pureed herbs. Exactly how I like them. Zey were screaming delicious. Like chewy mushrooms. . . .chewy mushrooms that used to crawl around.

2007-07-06T22:21:00.000+09:00

Tanabata: Star Crossed Lovers Meet in the Sky
The most popular Tanabata festival kicked off last night in Hiratsuka, about a half hour from here. The festival features elaborate decorations and of course, the usual festival food booths and carnival-type game booths. See all the photos here.
Yumi and I had a blast eating our way through the streets and enjoying the beautiful "yukata," or summer kimonos. (Hiratsuka, Japan)

2007-07-06T19:33:00.000+09:00

Matsuri no Gomi: (Festival Trash)
Yumi: (With a strange look and laugh,) Why are you taking a picture of garbage????
Jessica: Because it's cool! It's Japanese garbage!
Yumi: Why is it cool and Japanese???
Jessica: You've got a Japanese melon, some Asahi beer cups, a kaki-kori (Japanese shaved ice) container and the skeleton of an uchiwa (summer fan.) That's totally Japan!
Yumi: Oh. I see....

2007-07-02T06:40:00.000+09:00

This One's For Christine

This is a common sight in Japan--pups being toted around on wheels, dressed to the nines, visiting temples with thier owners. Yesterday alone, several dogs visited the Yakitori shop, most in tee shirts and some in little carts like these cuties. (Kamakura, Japan)

2007-07-02T06:15:00.000+09:00

He Gives the Term
"Coke Head"
a New Meaning

Saw this ad in a vending machine yesterday. If you're not familiar, samurais wore their hair like this. I'm guessing this guy is a famous actor? I just thought the ad was cleverly designed... (Kamakura, Japan)

2007-07-02T06:04:00.000+09:00

101 Reasons to Not Love Japan

In June, we found not one--but two--centipedes, or "Mukade," in our kitchen. I swear the first one was pushing eight inches and the second a mere six. They are scary as all hell and because of their armor, they are impossible to kill with average household weapons, (Raid and sneaker.)
This guy took five whacks from Matt's boot and was still limping away!!! FYI: My colleague tells me to hold them at arms length and burn their heads with a lighter to kill them. With pleasure....

2007-06-14T06:19:00.000+09:00

Summer is Here

Temps are suddenly upper seventies and touched eighty yesterday. I snapped this two weeks ago at Hideyoshi Yakitori and I think it conjures up what summer in Japan is about quite nicely. BTW that's an oolonghai made from oolong tea (barley) and shochu liquor. (Kamakura, Japan)

2007-06-03T09:05:00.000+09:00

"Edible, Raw Work of Art" Medium: Raw Seafood

We ate this last weekend on the way back from the sumo tournament in Tokyo. (VIEW PHOTOS HERE) We stumbled upon a delicious Izakaya, (a casual place with drinks and great food selections,) with an all-Kanji menu. I couldn't read a darn thing so I just asked for a few things that I knew we liked. They had most of it and this is what arrived when I asked for "sashimi." There's a little raw octopus, tuna and mystery fish plus a few raw prawns. In the front is a bit of red pepper, wasabe and freshly grated ginger. It's served on a bed of plum leaves (ume shiso,) and pine frawn. You eat the ume shiso with some fish but the pine is just for decor. The people sitting next to us were eating raw beef and when they caught us looking, they insisted that we try it. Matt had some and said it was so-so. I felt bad about eating thier food so I played shy.

That's Japan for you. Hospitality Rules!

(Near Yokohama Station, Japan)

2007-06-03T08:31:00.000+09:00

"If You Shall Ever Tire of Yakitori, I Shall Tire of You" Japanese Proverb

Okay, so I made that up. But they are words to live by as far as I'm concerned. One of Hideyoshi's specialties is a yummy slab of duck grilled with their secret yakitori sauce. Customers can purchase it to go, (on a stick,) or eat it on a plate in the shop. In the background are the last bites of heart, tsukune and cheek, (my current favorite.) We're going to eat there tonight...again;) This was taken umm...two weeks ago? (Hideyoshi Yakitori Restaurant, Kamakura Japan)

2007-06-03T08:21:00.000+09:00

Alternative Tentacles

The beautiful hand modeling a delicious chunk of octopus is Blanca. We grabbed some bar snacks at 7-11 before hitting a local bar. On the left is slightly pickled Bok Choy (Chinese cabbage,) in the middle, boiled Octopus with soy sauce and on the right--quickly pickled cucumbers, (Oshinko.) In the background is what I call "a drink for drinkers." It's made from some ginger looking root and is supposed to help your liver deal with booze thereby easing your hangover. It's no match for a night at the chuhai stand but then again, nothing really is...

2007-05-12T12:07:00.000+09:00

Scenes From a Japanese Restaurant -------------------------------------------------
I haven't posted in weeks because the old man is gone and the most exciting photos I took were of my rose bush blooming. So here's a collage of some of the more exciting food I've had this month:

Tsukune (Don't Try to Pronounce It...Just Eat It!)

On this beautiful plate is tsukune, (tsoo-koo-neh,) or minced chicken, vegetables and seasonings pressed on a stick, then grilled over a hot charcoal grill, (aka "yakitori" for those who have really been paying attention.) It's swimming next to a raw (quail?) egg in Hideyoshi Yakitori Shop's secret sauce. The sauce is a highly guarded recipe at all Yakitori shops. (taken at Yumi's wonderful family's restaurant in Kamakura.)

Stamina Tofu (My First Nato Experience)

Nato, the brown clumps between the tofu, is fermented beans with a stickiness similar to okra times ten, (okra is also also between tofu.) It's famous for either being loved or loathed by Japanese but especially loathed by gaijins, (foreigners,) partially because of its repugnant odor. For this reason, my lily ass has avoided the stuff. Yumi and I went to a yakitori restaurant in our neighborhood and I finally got to eat some! It tastes like beans with a hint of coffee or cocoa. She looked at me crazy for saying that, but it's true! It's no takoyaki, but guess what--I dig it! Next time I get sushi--I'm ordering nato!
Oh, and why "stamina tofu?" Nato is supposed to increase stamina. Aren't the strangest foods in every country good for our sex lives?!?! Raw oysters anyone??? (Yakitori Restaurant, Zushi City)

Me to Turtle: "Got Any Last Words?"

I know you've seen Mrs. Ashida holding a turtle, but c'mon! It never gets old! This was two weeks ago when we ate at Ashida's restaurant with the Tanakas. When I first starting eating here, I thought it was a sushi shop and that the owners had a flavor for decorating with turtle shells and Fugu fish. After the strange food experiences, my genius finally figured out that Ashida's specialty is "Supon," (turtle soup, pronounced "sue-pohn") eel and fugu fin sake--all delicious!

(For me, eating something after I've seen it alive is bittersweet and barbaric but it helps that these are the ugliest turtles I've ever seen.)

(Restaurant, Yokosuka)

2007-04-15T22:23:00.000+09:00

Japanese Sumo Torture
--------------------------------

Forget Chinese Water Torture! To bring your enemy to his knees, I recommend springing for this eighty dollar patch of real estate at a Japanese Sumo tournament! Today I attended the Yokosuka Sumo Tournament. Here are the photos on Picasa with no sign-in required, (you're welcome, Dad.)

2007-04-14T09:46:00.000+09:00

Kyoto: The Road Trip From Hell
-------------------------------------

As previously mentioned, we stopped in Kyoto first before heading to Osaka. With only one day to explore, we squeezed in as many temples as possible. This was taken at the largest temple for those who wanted to go inside to pray. Here are the scant photos of Kyoto but don't worry--we're already planning our next trip back.

2007-04-14T09:39:00.000+09:00

Where the Hip, Horny Kids Go
----------------------------------

Last month, we FINALLY got to travel a bit and headed to Kyoto for a day and Osaka for two. It wasn't enough time for either city! Here's the link to the Osaka photos.
Inspired by Bourdain's visit to Osaka, we ate what he ate and tried to walk where he walked. Check out the photos and see--that town rocked!

2007-04-12T19:58:00.000+09:00

So just a "Drug Body" is . . . Courtney Love?
------------------------------------------------

I've never had a drug body or a drug store body, but apparently, this is the latter.
(Osaka Aquarium.)

2007-04-12T19:49:00.000+09:00

Sure He Can Act--Act Like It's Cool to Sell Out!
-----------------------------------

Pitt's face is everywhere right now as he's not only getting overpaid to hold a mobile up to his head and act engaged but he's also gazing afar for clothing co. Edwin. Ahem....if you read this blog at least remotely often, you're familiar with that post! (Shin Osaka JR station.)

2007-04-12T19:42:00.000+09:00

No Profound Winged Insects to Be Found...
--------------------------------------------------

To think this poor restaurant actually PAID some company to print and/or design this menu for them! All I can picture is some beatnik-type, black turtleneck and shades wearing fly smoking a cigarette and going "yeah..man, intense."
Oh...food was good though FYI:)

2007-04-04T20:11:00.001+09:00

Yokosuka Blossoms
--------------------------
The Cherry Blossom were 100% bloomed a few days ago. The weather has been so terrible that today was the first day to get a photos of these almost week-old blossoms. Click this link to see the rest of the photos. These photos are for those of you that used to live in Japan that have a special place in your heart for cherry blossoms, or "sakura," especially those from Yokosuka Base.

Enjoy:)

2007-03-09T16:19:00.000+09:00

Fugu Fish Fins, Turtle Soup and Raw Scallops
----------------------------------------------

Last night, Matt and I went out with our friends, the Tanakas and our friend Lisa. The Tanakas are a cute, friendly 66 yr old couple that we befriended in a yakitori bar months ago have quickly become our closest Japanese friends.

The first time they took us to this restaurant we had raw stingray. The second time, they fed us live little fishies dipped in egg yolk and soy sauce. We knew something exciting would happen...but what?

Tanaka started ordering up a storm and plates of potatoes and tuna arrived along with plenty of drinks. Next we had turtle soup, the raw squid pictured on your left, thinly sliced raw scallops over a bed of radish and finally-sake poured over grilled fugu fins.

My First Fugu Experience
--------------------------

Tanaka san lit the sake on fire and quickly covered it explaining that it now was "free of alcohol" and I wouldn't "be crazy" if I drank too much. For the first time ever after hanging out with the Tanakas, I woke up without being hungover the next morning. Maybe there's some truth to the flame...

The fugu-infused sake was new and delish! It was almost as if I was drinking a recipe of fish broth that called for a whole lotta sake!

We Asked "What Was In the Soup?" -------------------------------------

I'm still giggling about the third photo. That's Tanaka sans younger sister who, with her husband, owns this sushi shop. After we enjoyed the turtle soup, Lisa and Matt skeptically noted to each other that there wasn't any turtle meat in the soup-just egg, broth and shitake mushrooms.

So, my friend Lisa then asked the owners "what's in this soup?"

The photo on your left was her answer! We all jumped out of our seats when she pulled the turtle out of the sink.

Point taken lady...don't question the locals.

2007-03-08T17:18:00.000+09:00

Okay? Alright? You Got That?
----------------------------------

(Inside restaurant in Tokyo)

2007-03-08T17:13:00.000+09:00

Spot the Tokyo Tranny!
----------------------------

I can't believe I forgot to post this! That's my friend Tal on the left who was visiting in January. On the right....I'm still not sure. Outside Harajuku station used to be a big scene with rockabilly bikers with pompadours a foot tall and indie bands. Now it's filled with teens and young adults dressed up, (and apparently a few guys in drag...though what sort of costume is beyond me.) The fuzz came and moved everybody out shortly after we took the photo. Not sure why. We were just hangin'...

2007-03-08T17:09:00.000+09:00

Brad Pitt: Ad Whore
-----------------------

He's not only the second blonde spokesmodel for Cameron Diaz's company, (see She Sells Out For Cells,) but also the face of Edwin jeans. I guess he's got lots of mouths to feed. (storefront in Tokyo)

2007-01-23T17:54:00.000+09:00

An Illustrated J Lo Sells Out for Lux Shampoo
Click this and check out how they turned a photo of the curvy J Lo into a thin, angly, illustrated character. It hardly looks like her anymore. Where's the booty, J Lo? Donde esta el nalgon??? (Yokohama Bus Stop)

2007-01-22T17:19:00.000+09:00

Shisedo Cosmetics + a Few Nips and Tucks. . .

...and you too can sell out like the very Photoshopped Angelina Jolie. (Drugstore in Yokosuka.)

2007-01-18T11:17:00.000+09:00

Mean Hat...Friendly Girl!
This gal was totally cool about posing for a photo. She didn't even ask why! I told her that it was because her hat was funny in English. She looked surprised...
(You should click the photo to get the full image and hopefully be able to make out the text.)

2007-01-18T10:52:00.000+09:00

Beer with a Bite
-------------------------
Damn I'm clever. That's the infamous ear-biting Mike Tyson in an ad for Suntory Beer on the side of a bus stop in Tokyo. Vintage???

2006-12-16T09:53:00.000+09:00

Vending Machine Ramen?!?
-------------------------------------

I'm only half-joking here. Technically it's not a vending machine, but you do drop in your cash and choose what type of ramen you want. Out pops a ticket that you take to a cook inside who will whip up your meal. Next photo is the board above the vending machine. I've seen these at truck stops but this one was an actual restaurant in Yokohama.

2006-12-04T18:02:00.001+09:00

She Sells Out for Cells

Cameron Diaz with her toothy mug is the new spokesperson for a mobile and internet service provider, Softbank. I hear the tv commercials are pretty clever though I haven't seen them. (Note to self: In the future, don't pose next to tall, skinny, blonde knockouts...)
(Tokyo)

2006-12-02T12:29:00.000+09:00

The F*ck Yeah Mobile

I don’t know what they’re selling. . . …but I’m buying. (Taken in Ofuna)

2006-12-01T14:05:00.000+09:00

Two For One Sale on...

Don't ask me. I don't get the connection between clothes and furry critters or between fashion and nether regions either...

(Thank you Daily Planner Dave for also snappin' this photo of colleague Karen and I in Tokyo!)

2006-12-01T13:18:00.000+09:00

I Never Thought of this Expression as Being Cute , But She Pulls it Off

This was taken by my colleague, Daily Planner Dave, while we were in the Shibuya subway station in Tokyo.
What do you think? Does she know how it translates in English slang?

2006-11-27T21:28:00.001+09:00

Sell Out!

Tommy Lee Jones' ugly mug is literally plastered on half the drink machines in Japan. He's pushing Boss coffee...or maybe heroin. He looks like a total junkie. Course, I'm the one who's addicted to Japanese canned coffee. But in my defense, in this country a person can't take ten steps without crossing paths with a vending machine. I even saw somebody giving their toddler a swig of the stuff...

2006-10-21T12:13:00.000+09:00

Funky Elevator in Yokohama Yields Rad Photo

We were in an elevator in Yokohama in some four-story arcade when I looked up and saw this awesome design on the ceiling. If you look closely--yup, that's yours truly.

2006-10-21T11:29:00.000+09:00

Porn is Lovely

After my Japanese class, (thanks to Lisa for hooking me up with that!) I wandered around Yokosuka in search of food. I remembered an adult theatre that I used to peek at curiously as a teenager and was told was still operational. Not only is it still there, but it looks like the owner hasn't invested a cent in the exterior's upkeep since I lived here eleven years ago! The sign is wonderful with peeling paint and weathered metal. Here's the up-close shot, but there are more under the Yokosuka photo album at the top left.

Ramen On Wheels?

Last weekend, we went in search of a British pub near the Yokohama train station. Nine dollar drinks and wall-to-wall gaijins, (foreigners,) sent us in search of something better. We ended up at a great female-owned bar/yakitori joint, (skewered and grilled meat, veggies, more!) With three dollar Yebisu (a malty beer,) mugs, very friendly staff, and killer yakitori, we plan to make this a regular destination. Afterwards, we found ourselves here, at a mobile ramen restaurant. The food was cheap, yummy and the guy had cans of beer in a cooler behind him. The experience was livened up by all the inebriated people who wanted to drink with us including a family with two children and a business man who called himself persona non grata. Maybe he was alluding to being a spy? In any case, they were all very friendly!